Why Some Patios Fail and Others Last Decades
In Colorado, our freeze-thaw cycles are brutal on outdoor surfaces. If your patio wasn’t built with proper prep, it will shift, sink, or crack within a few seasons. This post walks through our proven step-by-step process to install patios that hold up long term — especially in Boulder County and the surrounding Front Range.
We remove 7 to 10 inches of native soil to make space for the gravel base. In clay-heavy areas, we may dig deeper and use geotextile fabric to stabilize the soil.
This is the most important part of the entire installation:
4 to 6 inches of Class 6 road base (crushed stone with fines)
Installed in 2-inch lifts
Each layer compacted with a plate tamper
Final grade set using a laser level or string lines
Without proper compaction, the patio will settle unevenly.
We install 1 inch of concrete sand or screenings (for flagstone) as the bedding layer:
Smoothed but not compacted
Screeded to the final pitch for water runoff (typically 1/8 inch per foot)
Each unit is placed by hand following the layout pattern and edge restraints:
Pavers are tapped into place
Flagstone is set with consistent gaps and minimal wobble
Stones are cut as needed for tight edges
We use concrete, aluminum, or composite edge restraints to prevent movement at the border. This keeps the patio tight and clean over time.
Polymeric sand for pavers
Gator dust or stone dust for flagstone
The material is brushed in, vibrated into place, then watered to set. This locks the surface together and reduces weed growth and shifting.
We pressure blow the patio, hose it down, and can seal it upon request—especially for flagstone patios.
Prevents frost heave by draining water away
Compact base resists settling
Slope ensures water doesn’t pool and freeze
Edge restraints stop lateral shifting
We’ve built patios that still look perfect after 10+ Colorado winters.
We’ll walk the area, explain your options, and build it right — from the ground up.